A popcorn ceiling, also known as a cottage cheese ceiling, a stucco ceiling or formally an acoustic ceiling, is a term for a spray-on or paint-on ceiling treatment. It was the standard for bedroom and residential hallway ceilings for its bright, white appearance, ability to hide imperfections, and acoustical characteristics.
Frankly, it’s pretty simple. It’s messy, but it’s simple. Let’s go over the steps.
First, you remove everything from the ceiling. We’ve already removed the fan and the AC vent in the video. If you’re not comfortable removing the fan, please consult an electrician. It’s safe, it’s not expensive and it’ll save you some heartache.
There’s only a few tools that you need in this process and that’s a:
– Garden sprayer
– Drywall knife. We prefer 6 inch.
– Some tape and plastic.
As you can see in the video, we have not taped and plasticked the wall off, or the floor. One reason is for lighting. The other is that this floor is getting removed and we’re putting tile down. We really don’t have to worry about covering it, but usually, you’ll drape the walls, drape the floor and it makes an easy clean up.
When you’re plasticking, there’s two types of tapes you can get, that’s the regular masking tape and the blue tape, painter’s tape. We prefer painter’s tape.
When painter’s tape gets wet, it doesn’t leave a residue, so you don’t have any issues later with it pulling paint of the wall, or painting over the adhesive that’s left behind. A little more money, a lot less headache.
There’s some talk about dry scrape vs. wet scraping. We wet scrape. We don’t dry scrape and here’s why:
When you dry scrape, it’s dusty. It’s messy. You don’t get that clean look that you want. We wet scrape because It’s cleaner, easier, and all you have to do is pump it up a little bit, and spray it on there.
Depending on the weather you’re in, 5 minute wait, maybe 3 minutes, and then, all you’ve got to do is scrape.
You’ll get a clean scrape with hopefully no issues. Then, once that’s all done, you really can do the whole ceiling. Just spray the whole ceiling and then do it at once.
We’ve just done this section to show you. Then, once all the popcorn has been removed from the ceiling, you roll your plastic up, haul it off to the dumpster. That’s it.
Having a home is a huge investment. You constantly have to pay for bills, the mortgage, renovations, and improvements. In fact, more often than not having a house is a total nightmare, especially during the selling process. However, if you know what to do you can get a great deal for your home. To sell a house the buyers have to be comfortable enough to see if they can live there, so having a presentable house is a must.
Making other small tweaks such as improving the landscape, adding new paint, and getting attractive appliances also boost your house’s value by a great amount. When it comes to your home every detail counts. As long as you make the right improvements and renovations you’ll make a good amount of profits and see a shortened selling period. Regardless, you have hundreds of options to add value to your house, so the opportunities are endless.
Many household chores can be left for months at a time without any significant attention. Taking care of them monthly prevents build-up of dust and grime and makes the jobs quicker and easier to complete.
While there are many times when a tiling job should be completed by a professional, there are many more times when a homeowner can tackle the job himself. Those wondering how to install tile in many applications, may find that the same rules will apply for many tiling jobs and applications.
The most important thing for homeowners pondering a tile job is determining how much tile to purchase to complete the job. This is done through proper measuring of the space. Begin by breaking the area to be tiled into smaller pieces. For example, if a shower is being tiled, each wall will be measured separately from the next and the three areas added together. A room with bump-outs and angles in the floor will be broken into sections so that an accurate measure can be obtained. Measure each bump-out separately from the rest of the floor, so that each area measured can form as close to a rectangle as possible.
Measure each section in inches, for example a measurement of 6 feet, 4 inches should read 76 inches. When the length and width of the area have been measured multiple the numbers together and then divide by 144 to obtain the amount of square footage needed. For example, a foyer measuring 76 inches by 146 inches will come in at 77.06 square feet. Additional tile will be required for waste, cuts or breakage. If the tile pattern being considered is just straight laid squares, add 5% more tile for waste. If the pattern is on the diagonal, add 20% more for waste, due to the additional cuts. Slate tile and most other patterns will require approximately 15% more tile for waste.
Once the tile is on site and the surface prepped for installation, the next step to take is a dry-layout or dry-fit of the tile. This is done to determine how many cuts need to be made, and where these cuts should be placed.
Always begin in the center of an installation with a full tile. This means for a floor, a full tile should be laid in the exact center of the furthest wall from the door. For a wall tile application, a full tile should be laid in the exact center of bottom of the wall. A fireplace hearth should have a full tile laid in the front center of the hearth.
Lay the adjacent tiles equally out to each side so that the tiles will be balanced when they get to the edges of a tile run. Cut any tiles to fit that require cutting, and return them to the dry-layout before continuing to ensure that the fit is correct.
If installing natural stone or a tile with a lot of variation in color from piece to piece, lay the tiles from several boxes at once, and blend the colors as they are laid. This will keep colors and patterns from bunching up in places, and will ensure an even layout.
If laying borders, decorative tiles or cut-in tiles, make all the necessary cuts and double check the dry-fit to be sure they fit together correctly. Then install the field tiles first, let them set up and then go back and install the decorative tiles into the place left. This is done so that if the decorative tiles are thinner than the field tile, they can be built up properly to ensure an even layout.
If installing a multi-piece tile pattern, a dry-layout is essential. Start with a full tile in one corner of the room, and work outward from there. The entire layout may need to be moved from one place to another to ensure a pleasing layout. Some patterns draw the eye in the direction the tiles move, so lay out the entire pattern, and step back to be sure that this is the desired direction. If not, re-lay the tiles before making any cuts.
Once cuts have been made, leave the tiles where they are in the pattern, taking up only a few at a time to install. This will ensure that the pattern gets installed in the same direction that it was originally laid, and that no mistakes are made.
The most important thing to do is double check each step as it is done. The old saying, “measure twice, cut once” applies to nearly every stage of a tiling job. Be absolutely certain with a dry-fit before laying a single tile, and the job should go over without a hitch.
Downspout is an important part of your gutter system. If poorly maintained, they can get clogged and result in some serious gutter problems. This article will focus on simple solutions for poor downspout drainage.
Add downspout extender
If your home have well-drained soil that slopes away from the foundation, then, downspout extender could be a perfect option to enhance the downspout drainage. It is advisable to use a straight, folding vinyl as an extension. Besides, accordion-style flexible extender is a great option.
Note that you can easily twist these extenders into various angles to effectively divert the water flow away from the foundation.
Consider piping the water away from your house
If you want to divert the water far from your house, you can use French drains or other trench drainage systems. Note that French drain slopes away from the house and empties the water to an open ground away from the house.
This method of diverting water away from your house has limitations too. Since water is flowing naturally, it can erode the drain easily and make it deeper. Besides, it can interfere with your landscape and make it look ugly! To avoid such problems, you may need to fill the bottom of the French drain with gravel, lay in a flexible pipe and cover it with more gravel, then add soil. This will keep off all the problems associated with open drains.
Bury drainage pipes
Not all houses are built on sloppy areas. If your yard doesn’t slope away from the foundation, you may need to construct more complex trenches. Note that most municipal administrations don’t allow homeowners to directly attach their drainage to the storm sewer system. But you can construct an underground drainage system. Keep in mind that this will require you to dig and install pipes on the gently sloping trench.
You can use diverters together with the other methods. This is because diverters might not be a completed solution especially during heavy rainstorms. Note that diverters draw water from rooftops into barrels through the downspouts. Depending on the size of the barrel, diverters can be a perfect solution especially if you have a huge water tank.
Enhancing downspout drainage is simple. However, if neglected, poor downspout drainage can damage your foundation by weakening it and causing cracks. Besides, leaking basements and mold can be as a result of poor downspout drainage.
When allocating the home improvement money as tax refund season looms and another economic stimulus package is discussed, it’s important to stay current.
• Emerging energy-efficient technology
• Sustainable, green building products
• Economic environment
• Seasonal/availability prices of construction materials (for example, a few years ago the price of concrete spiked while China was experiencing a construction surge.)
• Time of the year (remodeling contractor fees can vary; outdoor projects in the winter vs indoor projects during the summer, etc.)
• The cost of electricity, natural gas, and heating oil
Remodeling magazine keeps up with home improvement cost/return statistics. The national average presented is generated from US regional data. What does this mean if the home is outside the US? It means nothing is nailed down, but due to today’s global economy, general economic trends may be able to be extrapolated.
Their 2014-2015 national averages report reveals that the ROI on almost all projects is down from 2013. It may be speculated that this may be due to the slumping and uncertain real estate market, leading to uncertainty. Only three remodeling projects are trending up:
• Bathroom remodel. The old stand-by maintains its importance. Why? Perhaps because it remains the most personal room in the home and the fixtures can be very cost-intensive per square foot. The average cost of the bath remodel is $51,455; the resale value is $36,400; and the recoup value is 70.7%. Yes, resale is lower than investment, but recall that this is today’s cost recoup data relative to 2013.
• Deck addition using Trex or other composite deck materials. This may reflect the tendency to spend more family leisure and entertaining time at home (the hip, new term for this is “staycations”) rather than taking vacations and traveling during tough economic times with uncertain fuel costs. The average cost comes in at $37,498; the resale value is $23,706; and the recoup is a healthy 63.2%. Once again, this percentage is up from the percentage in 2013.
• Siding replacement using foam backed vinyl. The fact that foam backed vinyl siding (which means added insulation) went up while cement fiber siding (such as Hardi products) went down may indicate that the trend is that energy savings are trumping durability. The vinyl statistics are: average cost is $12,528; resale is $10,074; and recoup is 80.4%.
Currently, more focus is on exterior rather than interior projects. With more homeowners electing to sit tight, this may be a hedge against both high and uncertain energy costs.
With the home resale market in a slump, homeowners may be more focused on lowering utility bills and not moving rather than banking on ROI.
The cost savings related to home-heating double as a personal benefit of using wood heat as well. Because wood heat is less expensive, budget-conscious home-owners feel better about keeping their homes at warmer temperatures.
Darren Gordon’s story illustrates this point. “[Before installing a wood stove,] I turned down the thermostat in the winter and turned it up in the summer. We kept the house pretty cold all winter. But now we keep the house toasty warm twenty four hours a day.”
Jim Ballenthin’s story is similar. When the Ballenthins were considering moving from a warmer area to a colder area of Minnesota, Jim Ballenthin’s wife, Jean, wanted to make sure that their home would be comfortable in the cold winters.
“Wood heat was the perfect way for Jean to be as warm as she wanted without me complaining about the cost of heating fuel,” says Jim Ballenthin.
And it does get cold in Minnesota! The Ballenthins have kept their house warm using wood in temperatures as low as -50F!
“Nothing beats a wood stove for the warming effect of radiant heat,” adds Jim Ballenthin. “It’s very cozy, comfortable, and frequently romantic.”
Before burning wood, Darren Gordon used to exercise at the gym. Now he uses wood splitting as a primary way to stay in shape. “If you are going to work out,” Gordon says, “you might as well do something that puts money in your pocket at the same time. Splitting wood really is an enjoyable activity. It has actually become one of the major reasons that I want to keep heating with wood.”
Similarly, the Ballenthins see the physical benefits, as well. Jim and Jean Ballenthin enjoy splitting wood together. “The exercise of cutting firewood is better than that obtained at any health club,” says Jim Ballenthin. “It connects us to—and makes us more aware of—our need to live in a sustainable relationship with our environment.”
“It’s a lifestyle choice,” says Darren Gordon. “Either you love [heating with wood] or you don’t.” It’s safe to say that Darren Gordon loves heating with wood. In fact, he has even written a detailed account of his family’s experience with wood heat.
Jim Ballenthin agrees. “Burning wood may be a hassle for those for whom money is of no concern or for those who are not connected with the woods, forests, and outdoors. But it is second nature to us,” he says. “It’s a matter of choices, priorities, economics, and exercise of personal values. At this time, it’s hard to imagine us heating any other way.”
Ballenthin continues, “Friends and guests crowd around the stove after being outside on a cold winter day cross-country skiing, snow shoeing, ice skating on the lake, or just walking. A hot toddy, cup of hot cocoa, or coffee with Kahlua and a warm stove just can’t be beat for social conviviality.”